Black Sail Hut: Exploring Ennerdale on Foot or by Bike

Tucked away at the head of Ennerdale, beneath some of the Lake District's most impressive fells, Black Sail Hut is one of those places that makes the journey worthwhile.

Originally a shepherd's bothy, the stone building is now run by the Youth Hostels Association and is one of the most remote hostels in England. There's no road access for visitors, so getting there means walking or cycling into the valley.

It's a place I visit regularly, often on the bike, and somewhere I never really tire of.

The journey through Ennerdale

Part of Black Sail's appeal is the journey itself. Ennerdale feels quite different from some of the busier Lake District valleys. There are no roads running along the full length of the lake or into the upper valley, and the further you travel, the more the landscape takes over.

Starting from the western end of Ennerdale Water, the route follows the lakeshore and continues through the forest towards the head of the valley.

The scenery changes as you go. The lake gives way to woodland, rivers and waterfalls, before the valley opens out beneath the surrounding mountains.

Which route should you take?

There are a few ways to explore the valley, and you don't necessarily have to follow exactly the same route in both directions.

My preference is to cross the River Liza at the first bridge and take the track on the right-hand side of the river as you head towards Black Sail. I find this side a little more interesting, with bridges, waterfalls and some lovely stretches of woodland along the way.

You can cross back over the river further up the valley, making it possible to vary the outward and return journeys.

Much of the route follows broad forest tracks, making it a good option for walking or mountain biking. Some earlier sections are accessible to pushchairs and certain wheelchairs, although surfaces vary and become rougher further into the valley. The final approach to Black Sail is much less suitable for anything on small wheels.

Arriving at Black Sail Hut

Black Sail sits beneath the mountains at the eastern end of the valley, with Great Gable and the surrounding fells providing a spectacular backdrop.

The hostel was once a shepherd's bothy and has retained much of its character. It's a simple stone building in a remarkable location.

One of its nicest features is the honesty café, which provides a welcome opportunity for passing walkers and cyclists to stop for a drink or something to eat when available.

I've had plenty of enjoyable conversations here with people passing through. Some are tackling long-distance routes, others are heading over the surrounding passes, and some have simply made the journey up Ennerdale for the day.

Parking and access

Bleach Green, at the western end of Ennerdale Water, is a useful starting point for exploring the valley. However, the car park has recently been closed for road resurfacing work, so check the latest arrangements before travelling.

An alternative is Bowness Knott, further along the northern side of the lake. There is some free parking in the area, while the main car park is chargeable and does not accept cash. Starting at Bowness Knott also shortens the journey to Black Sail.

This is a remote valley. Mobile reception can be unreliable, the weather can change quickly and the route becomes increasingly exposed as you approach the head of Ennerdale. Take suitable clothing, food and water, and carry a map rather than relying entirely on your phone.

A quieter side of the Lake District

Ennerdale isn't completely undiscovered, and Black Sail is a popular destination in its own right. But compared with some of the better-known parts of the Lakes, it's still possible to find a real sense of space here.

Whether you're walking, riding a mountain bike or simply looking for somewhere different to explore, it's a valley well worth getting to know.

And if you make it all the way to Black Sail, take a little time to stop. The journey back can wait.

Photographs by Blake Fell Apparel, taken in Ennerdale, Western Lake District.

Another route to explore

If you enjoyed this, read about Loweswater and the old coffin road, with photographs and a suggested circular route.