Crag Fell: Big Views Above Ennerdale Water

At 523 metres, Crag Fell isn't among the Lake District's highest mountains, but it certainly doesn't disappoint when it comes to views.

Rising steeply above the southern shore of Ennerdale Water, it's one of those fells that offers an awful lot for a relatively modest height. You get lakeside paths, rocky outcrops, woodland, open fellside and fantastic views towards the mountains at the head of Ennerdale.

It's also a firm favourite of mine when I fancy a more adventurous dog walk but haven't got half a day, never mind a full day, to spare. I can be up and down in under two hours, although I'd allow longer if you're unfamiliar with the route.

One of the things I particularly like about this walk is that it isn't especially well trodden. You can often have long stretches to yourself, which is part of the appeal. The downside is that some paths aren't particularly obvious, especially in summer when the bracken has grown up around them.

Starting at Bleach Green

Our route starts at Bleach Green, at the western end of Ennerdale Water. From here, head towards the lake and cross the bridge by the weir where the River Ehen leaves Ennerdale Water.

The initial section follows the southern shore, with views opening up towards the head of the valley. Across the water are Great Borne and Bowness Knott, while the distinctive rocky slopes of Anglers Crag rise ahead.

It's a lovely stretch of walking, although the terrain becomes considerably rougher as you approach Anglers Crag.

Anglers Crag and the climb

Anglers Crag is one of Ennerdale's most recognisable features, a rocky promontory projecting towards the lake. The path here is steep and rocky in places, with sections requiring care, particularly when wet.

Beyond Anglers Crag, the route begins climbing towards Crag Fell itself. One of the interesting features of this ascent is the collection of rocky pinnacles on the northern slopes. They're an impressive sight and easily overlooked by anyone taking the more straightforward woodland route to the summit.

The climb is fairly relentless in places, but you gain height quickly and the views over Ennerdale Water improve with every stop.

This isn't a heavily used route, and there are sections where the path becomes faint or difficult to follow. Once the bracken is up, it can be surprisingly easy to lose the line of the path, so having a map or a route loaded onto your phone is a good idea.

Crag Fell summit

The summit stands at 523 metres, and the panorama is worth the effort. Looking east, Ennerdale Water stretches towards the heart of the valley, with the mountains around Pillar, Steeple and the High Stile ridge forming the backdrop.

Turn west and the landscape changes completely. The mountains give way to the lower fells, patchwork fields and the coastal plain, with the Irish Sea visible on a clear day.

That's one of my favourite things about Crag Fell. You can look one way towards some of the wildest mountain scenery in the Lakes and the other towards the Cumbrian coast.

Two very different sides of the same fell

Approach Crag Fell from the Cold Fell side and you could easily mistake it for a fairly sedate grassy hill. The land here is much more like a broad, high upland plateau, with rounded slopes that give little hint of what's waiting on the other side.

Turn towards Ennerdale Water and it's an entirely different story. The fell rises dramatically, almost like a wall, from the lakeshore, with steep crags, rocky gullies and sharp drops. That contrast between the gentle western approach and the much wilder lakeside face is one of the things that makes Crag Fell so interesting.

A different place in winter

I've included photographs from several visits rather than one single walk, and the winter pictures show just how different this relatively modest fell can become. With snow covering the mountains around Ennerdale, the views are spectacular.

But don't underestimate the conditions. The steep ground above the lake, rocky paths and exposed sections become much more serious when snow and ice are present. Even at 523 metres, winter conditions can demand appropriate equipment and experience.

Returning through the woodland

From the summit, our circular route descends westwards towards the woodland below Crag Fell. The character of the walk changes again as the open hillside gives way to plantation paths and forestry tracks.

These lower paths can be muddy and slippery after rain, but they provide a different perspective on the fell and eventually lead back towards Bleach Green.

It's a satisfying circular route that manages to pack a surprising amount of variety into a relatively short walk.

An easier way to enjoy the views

If you fancy the views without tackling the steeper approach from Anglers Crag, there's another option. You can cheat a little by finding a safe, legal place to park off Cold Fell Road and approaching Crag Fell using the forestry tracks.

From this side you're walking across the gentler, higher ground instead of climbing straight up from the lake. The track approach is more gradual and makes the summit feel surprisingly accessible, especially compared with the dramatic northern face you've just been looking at in the photographs.

You'll still get those fantastic views across the lake and towards the mountains, but with a less demanding ascent. Check forestry access and parking arrangements before travelling.

Planning your walk

• Start and finish: Bleach Green, Ennerdale
• Summit: Crag Fell, 523 metres
• Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous, with steep, rocky sections
• Terrain: Lakeshore paths, rocky hillside, open fell and woodland tracks
• Navigation: OS Explorer OL4
• Walking time: I can complete this circuit in under two hours, but allow extra time for navigation, the climb and photographs.

Parking arrangements at Bleach Green should be checked before travelling, particularly while local access restrictions are in place. For anyone wanting an easier outing, the lower paths around the western end of Ennerdale Water offer lovely views without the climb onto Crag Fell.

Full walking route: Crag Fell circular on OS Maps.

Crag Fell might be overshadowed by its taller neighbours, but for views, variety and a quieter corner of the Lake District, it's well worth exploring. For me, it's one of those walks I keep coming back to, especially when I want to get out on the fells with the dog without committing an entire day.