Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks: A Circular Walk from Gatesgarth

Fleetwith Pike rises sharply above Gatesgarth at the head of Buttermere. Seen from below, its nose looks intimidating, and climbing it is certainly a test of the lungs. But it makes a fantastic start to a circular walk that also takes in Haystacks, the old quarry landscape above Honister and some wonderful views over the western Lakes.

We had a remarkable cloud inversion on this outing. The valleys were filled with cloud while the fells above were in sunshine, and the views seemed to change with every bit of height gained.

Route at a glance

• Start and finish: Gatesgarth Farm, at the head of Buttermere
• Distance: approximately 5.5 to 6 miles (9 to 10 km)
• Ascent: approximately 700 to 800 metres
• Time: allow roughly 4.5 to 6 hours, with stops
• Difficulty: strenuous, with steep rocky and sometimes exposed ground
• Route: Gatesgarth, Fleetwith Edge, Fleetwith Pike, Honister Crag (Black Star), Dubs Quarry area, Haystacks, Scarth Gap, Gatesgarth

Gatesgarth and the nose of Fleetwith Pike

There's plenty of parking at Gatesgarth Farm, although it's worth arriving early on a busy day. On our visit parking was paid through an honesty bucket, so bringing cash is sensible, but do check the current arrangement when you arrive.

From Gatesgarth the climb up Fleetwith Edge begins almost immediately. It's not a gentle warm-up. The nose of Fleetwith Pike is a real test of the lungs, rising steeply from the valley through bracken, grass and rock. The route finds its way up between rocky outcrops, with occasional hands-on sections as you get higher.

Partway up, the white memorial cross makes a distinctive landmark. It commemorates Fanny Mercer, who died here in 1887. It's a reminder that this is steep mountain terrain, despite being so close to the road.

Climbing above the cloud

Normally you'd expect the view back over Buttermere and Crummock Water to open up as you climb. On this occasion, though, the valleys were wrapped in cloud. As we got higher the sunshine broke through, leaving us looking across a sea of white towards the surrounding ridges.

It's one of the best things about walking in the Lakes. You can set off under a grey sky and discover something completely different a few hundred metres above the valley floor.

Fleetwith Pike and Honister Crag

Fleetwith Pike's summit stands at 648 metres. From here, the circuit heads east towards Honister Crag, whose summit is also known as Black Star. The names can be confusing because some maps label the 634-metre top as Black Star, while walkers often refer to it as Honister Crag.

The landscape changes noticeably as you head towards the old slate workings. Quarry tracks, spoil and the remains of the area's industrial history contrast with the natural crags and slopes around Fleetwith Pike.

Across towards Haystacks

The route then heads south and west through the Dubs Quarry area towards Haystacks. The old quarry tracks make sections of the going easier, but the ground becomes rough and rocky again as you approach the fell.

Two bothies near the route

There are also two bothies worth knowing about in this area. Dubs Hut sits by the old quarry workings, while Warnscale Head Bothy is tucked away among the slate below, above Warnscale Beck. Warnscale Head is particularly well known for its little window looking down towards Buttermere. It is a separate shelter from Dubs Hut and makes an interesting optional detour, rather than a stop directly on our recorded circuit. The approach is rough, and the building is easy to miss among the rocks.

Haystacks, at 597 metres, has a completely different character from Fleetwith Pike. Instead of one obvious summit ridge, it's a jumble of rocky knolls, little tarns and winding paths. In poor visibility, it's easy to lose the line of the route, so don't rely on following the most worn-looking path.

Innominate Tarn and Haystacks

One of the best-known spots is Innominate Tarn. Haystacks was famously Alfred Wainwright's favourite fell, and, in accordance with his wishes, his ashes were scattered beside the tarn in 1991. It's a small piece of Lakeland history worth knowing as you pass.

From the Haystacks area, the views extend towards Ennerdale and the great fells around its head, including Pillar and the Gables. There is plenty to explore, but care is needed around the rocky tops and uneven ground.

Descending through Scarth Gap

From Haystacks, continue west and then descend towards Scarth Gap, the pass separating Haystacks from High Crag. The upper section is steep and rocky, with awkward steps in places, particularly if the rock is wet.

At Scarth Gap, turn north and follow the path down into the Buttermere valley. This is a more straightforward way back, although after all that climbing your legs may still feel the descent. The path eventually returns towards Gatesgarth, completing the circuit.

A few practical points

This isn't a walk for poor visibility, strong winds, ice or very wet conditions if you're not confident on steep mountain ground. Fleetwith Edge includes exposed rocky sections, and the maze of paths around Haystacks can be tricky to navigate. Bring appropriate footwear, waterproofs, food and a map or dependable offline navigation. Keep dogs under close control around steep drops and livestock.

For a less direct way onto Fleetwith Pike, routes from Honister Pass avoid the lung-busting climb from Gatesgarth, but make for a different walk.

Final thoughts

What makes this circuit stand out is the contrast. You start with a hard climb straight up Fleetwith Pike, pass through the old working landscape around Honister Crag, then cross the rocky, varied ground of Haystacks before dropping back towards Buttermere.

We were particularly lucky with the weather above the cloud. But even without an inversion, this is a rewarding route for experienced fellwalkers who enjoy a demanding day in the western Lakes.