Winter sunlight on the fells above Crummock Water, photographed from the High Stile ridge

High Stile Ridge Walk from Ennerdale via Rake Beck

A quieter approach to one of the Lake District's finest ridges.

The High Stile ridge is one of the finest stretches of high ground in the western Lake District. Most people approach it from Buttermere, climbing Red Pike via Bleaberry Tarn before continuing towards High Stile and High Crag.

But there's another way up, starting near Bowness Knott on the northern side of Ennerdale Water.

It's a demanding approach, particularly the steep climb alongside Rake Beck, but the reward is a superb walk across Great Borne, Starling Dodd and Red Pike before reaching High Stile itself.

And on a clear winter's day, the views are hard to beat.

Map showing the outward High Stile ridge route from near Bowness Knott via Rake Beck, Great Borne, Starling Dodd and Red Pike
Our outward route from near Bowness Knott to High Stile. We largely retraced our steps for the return.

The walk at a glance

  • Start: Bowness Knott, Ennerdale
  • Route: Rake Beck, Great Borne, Starling Dodd, Red Pike and High Stile
  • Highest point: High Stile, 807 metres
  • Difficulty: Strenuous, with steep and rocky sections requiring some scrambling
  • Return: Retrace the route, with alternative descents possible for experienced walkers
  • Map: OS Explorer OL4

Starting from Bowness Knott

Starting near Bowness Knott, follow the road back towards Rake Beck. A stile near the beck gives access to the fellside.

Lane and dry stone wall near the Ennerdale fells in winter
The quieter Ennerdale approach.

From here, the climbing starts almost immediately.

The route follows the steep slopes around Rake Beck towards Great Borne. It's rough going in places, with rocky sections requiring hands as well as feet.

The ascent isn't particularly forgiving, but the views back over Ennerdale Water soon make up for the effort.

As you gain height, the lake stretches out below, with Crag Fell on the opposite shore and the mountains of Ennerdale rising beyond.

Great Borne and Starling Dodd

Once the steep ground around Rake Beck is behind you, the landscape begins to open out.

Great Borne stands at 616 metres, and from here the route continues eastwards towards Starling Dodd.

Path across open grass on the High Stile ridge approach with a dog ahead
Leaving the steep ascent behind for more open ground.

This is a lovely stretch of walking, particularly in good visibility. The terrain is more open and rolling, with extensive views across the western fells.

Starling Dodd, at 633 metres, is a relatively unassuming summit, but the surrounding views are excellent.

Two walkers on the ridge between Great Borne and Red Pike in golden winter light
The more open stretch of the ridge.

Looking north, the Loweswater and Grasmoor fells dominate the skyline. To the south lies Ennerdale, while ahead the ridge rises towards Red Pike.

Red Pike to High Stile

Beyond Starling Dodd, the route climbs towards Red Pike, where the landscape becomes noticeably more dramatic.

At 755 metres, Red Pike is an excellent viewpoint overlooking Buttermere and Crummock Water.

Views across the valleys and ridges of the western Lake District from the High Stile range
Views across the western fells.

The ridge continues towards High Stile, following the high ground above Chapel Crags.

High Stile itself stands at 807 metres and is the highest point on this stretch of the ridge.

The views are magnificent. On one side are the lakes and steep mountainsides surrounding Buttermere. On the other is Ennerdale, stretching westwards towards the coast.

It's also a particularly good place to appreciate the contrast between the two valleys.

Buttermere is among the most visited parts of the western Lakes, while Ennerdale remains comparatively quiet.

Winter sunshine on the ridge

The photographs accompanying this walk were taken during a spell of cold, clear winter weather, with snow covering the highest ground.

The changing light was probably the most memorable part of the day.

Winter cloud and patches of sunshine across the High Stile ridge
The winter light kept changing as clouds passed overhead.

Large clouds moved across the mountains, occasionally allowing the low winter sun to break through and illuminate the fellsides.

At times entire sections of the landscape were in shadow, while others were glowing in the afternoon sunlight.

Walker wearing a red jacket on a snowy High Stile summit looking out over the surrounding mountains
Looking out across the fells from the snowy ridge.
Wide snowy summit foreground with cloud-filled winter sky on High Stile
Snow on the higher ground made the views even more striking.

With a dusting of snow on the ridge and clear views across the surrounding mountains, it was a fantastic day to be up there.

Returning to Ennerdale

On this particular walk, we simply retraced our steps from High Stile, taking a few alternative paths along the way rather than following precisely the same line throughout.

That meant enjoying the ridge from the opposite direction, with another opportunity to appreciate the views across Ennerdale and the surrounding fells.

There are other options for walkers looking to make a longer circuit.

It's possible to descend from parts of the ridge towards the forestry road running through Ennerdale, although these routes can involve steep, rough and sometimes pathless ground. They're best approached with a good map and some experience of navigating away from established mountain paths.

Another possibility is to continue eastwards over High Crag towards Scarth Gap. From there, walkers can descend south towards Black Sail and the Ennerdale valley, eventually joining the forestry road, or head north towards Buttermere.

Bear in mind that returning to Bowness Knott from the head of Ennerdale involves a substantial additional walk along the valley.

For anyone considering these alternatives, it's worth planning the complete route beforehand rather than making the decision once you're already on the ridge.

A few things worth knowing

The Rake Beck ascent is steep and can be slippery, particularly after rain or during winter conditions.

Although the ridge itself offers some enjoyable walking, there are exposed sections and steep drops, especially around Red Pike and High Stile.

Snow and ice can make this a serious mountain outing, requiring appropriate equipment and winter walking experience.

Good navigation skills are important too, as paths can become indistinct in poor visibility.

For experienced walkers, though, this is a fantastic way to approach the High Stile ridge.

Starting from Ennerdale offers a different perspective on these familiar mountains, with plenty of opportunities to enjoy some of the quieter corners of the western Lake District.

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