Three Lakes Ride: Loweswater, Crummock Water and Buttermere
There's some excellent riding around the western Lakes, particularly if you enjoy getting away from the busier routes. This circular ride from Fangs Brow takes in three of the area's most attractive lakes, with a mixture of woodland, lakeside riding and some more demanding sections along the way.
It's a varied route, passing through Loweswater, along Crummock Water and down towards Buttermere before returning behind Mellbreak through Mosedale.
- Distance: 16.72 miles (26.9 km)
- Ascent: 1,812 ft (552 m)
- Moving time: 2 hours 53 minutes
- Start and finish: Fangs Brow, above Loweswater
- Terrain: Forestry tracks, woodland paths, bridleways and quiet roads
Fangs Brow to High Nook Farm
There's no gentle introduction to this ride. Straight from Fangs Brow you're into a climb on a fairly uneven track, with three gates in quick succession to interrupt your progress. Once you've negotiated those, the route turns downhill, and things get considerably more interesting.
I'm a pretty average rider, but for me the section between Fangs Brow and High Nook Farm is probably the most exhilarating part of the entire ride.
What starts out as an obvious, wide bridleway gradually gives way to rougher, less distinct sections where you might find yourself wondering, "Am I actually still on the right route?"
It's all part of the fun, although you'll want to keep an eye on the route as you go.
And this is the Lake District, so don't expect to stay dry. In fact, you can pretty much guarantee you'll get muddy, particularly after a spell of rain.
It's a cracking opening section, combining a bit of climbing, some entertaining descending and just enough uncertainty to keep you on your toes.
Loweswater to Crummock Water
From Loweswater, the ride continues towards Crummock Water, passing through Lanthwaite Wood.
Taking the woodland route makes the going a little more difficult, but it cuts off a good chunk of riding compared with following the road around. It's a worthwhile alternative if you're happy tackling the rougher ground.
The scenery opens up around Crummock Water, with Mellbreak dominating the western shore and the surrounding fells providing a spectacular backdrop.
One of the things I particularly enjoyed about this stretch was just how quiet it was. I encountered the odd walker elsewhere on the ride, but around Crummock Water there wasn't another soul in sight.
Crummock Water to Buttermere
With an eye on the time, I opted to follow the road from Lanthwaite towards Buttermere.
If you've got more time to spare, there's a much more interesting bridleway option taking you up past Rannerdale. It's worth considering if you'd prefer to spend more of the ride off-road.
Buttermere itself was a different story from Crummock Water. Even on a fairly average October weekday, there were plenty of people around. It's a Lake District honeypot, and for very good reason. The setting is spectacular, with some of the best-known fells in the western Lakes rising above the valley.
It's also a good reminder that exploring Buttermere on foot or two wheels can be much more enjoyable than driving in and trying to find somewhere to park.
Returning via Mosedale
Rather than retracing the outward route, the return heads behind Mellbreak through the Mosedale area.
This gives the ride a completely different feel. The lakeside scenery gives way to a quieter valley, with Mellbreak separating the return route from Crummock Water.
It's another enjoyable section of the circuit and a chance to appreciate the quieter side of the western Lakes.
Kirkstile Inn, Maggie's Bridge and Loweswater
After Mosedale, a stop at the Kirkstile Inn is almost compulsory. Set beneath Mellbreak in Loweswater, it's one of those traditional Lakeland pubs that's well worth building into a day out, whether you're after some food or a well-earned drink.
From here, the route continues towards Maggie's Bridge before following a particularly scenic stretch beside Loweswater.
It's a lovely way to finish the circuit, with the lake, woodland and surrounding fells providing a final dose of Lakeland scenery.
Of course, there's still the matter of getting back to Fangs Brow. The route finishes with another climb, so don't assume all the hard work is behind you once you've reached the lake.
Final thoughts
At just under 17 miles, this is an excellent circuit linking three lakes with varied terrain and some fantastic western Lakeland scenery.
For me, the descent from Fangs Brow towards High Nook Farm was the highlight in terms of riding, while the quieter stretches around Crummock Water and Mosedale were just as enjoyable for the scenery and solitude.
It's a route with a bit of everything: rough tracks, woodland, quiet roads, some challenging sections and plenty of places where you'll want to stop and take in the views.
The western Lakes have some brilliant riding if you're prepared to venture a little beyond the obvious routes. This circuit is a good example of that.