Ennerdale Water Circular Walk: A Local Guide to One of the Lake District's Quietest Lakes

There are plenty of beautiful lakes in the Lake District, but Ennerdale Water has always felt a little different. Unlike many of the better-known lakes, there's no public road running alongside its shores. There is a forestry track along the northern side, but no constant stream of traffic, busy lakeside villages or rows of hotels and cafés.

Instead, you've got woodland, rocky shores and fantastic views towards the mountains at the head of the valley. I've walked around Ennerdale Water more times than I can count, and it's a route I never tire of. My preferred direction is to start at Bleach Green and tackle Angler's Crag first, leaving the easier northern shore for the return journey.

The walk also has an interesting history, from the long-lost Anglers Hotel to the work being undertaken through the Wild Ennerdale project.

The walk at a glance

Distance: approximately 6.5 miles (10.5 km)
Time: 3.5 to 4.5 hours
Difficulty: moderate
Route: circular, starting at Bleach Green with Angler's Crag first
Terrain: rocky paths, uneven and often waterlogged ground, woodland and forestry tracks
Map: OS Explorer OL4

Although the distance isn't particularly demanding, don't mistake this for an easy, level walk around a lake. The southern shore can be surprisingly rough, and good walking footwear is essential.

Starting from Bleach Green

Bleach Green sits at the western end of Ennerdale Water, a short distance from Ennerdale Bridge. From the car park, follow the track towards the lake and cross the bridge over the weir, where the water leaves Ennerdale and becomes the River Ehen.

Looking east, the lake stretches towards the mountains at the head of the valley. Crag Fell rises above the southern shore, with Angler's Crag forming a rocky feature close to the water. Across the lake, Bowness Knott stands above the northern shoreline, with Great Borne and Starling Dodd rising beyond.

Angler's Crag: over the top or along the shore?

Angler's Crag is probably the best-known obstacle on the circuit. The lower route follows the rocks close to the water and involves a short scramble. In places you'll need to use your hands, and wet rock can make the going particularly awkward.

But you can climb over Angler's Crag rather than scrambling along the lakeside. The higher route involves a climb and uneven ground, but avoids the awkward section immediately beside the water. It also offers excellent views along Ennerdale Water. Both routes require care, particularly in wet conditions.

The southern shore: rougher than you might expect

Once beyond Angler's Crag, the path continues east along the southern shore. One thing worth emphasising is that the path doesn't suddenly become easy once you've passed the crag. Much of the route is uneven, with exposed roots, rocks, muddy stretches and sections that are frequently waterlogged. Even after a relatively dry spell, some parts remain surprisingly wet underfoot.

It's manageable for reasonably experienced walkers, but progress can be slower than the distance suggests. The scenery more than makes up for it. Above the southern shore are the steep slopes of Crag Fell, with Grike and Lank Rigg further into the surrounding hills. Across the water, the northern skyline includes Great Borne and Starling Dodd. Further east, Pillar rises above the upper valley, with High Crag and High Stile among the surrounding high fells.

Crossing the River Liza

As you approach the eastern end of Ennerdale Water, the valley opens out. The River Liza flows down from the mountains beyond, passing through upper Ennerdale before entering the lake. From here you can look deeper into the valley towards Pillar and the high ground surrounding Black Sail Pass. Follow the path towards the bridge over the River Liza, cross to the northern side and pick up the forestry track for the return journey.

Returning along the northern shore

The northern side provides a welcome contrast to the rougher southern shore. Much of the return follows a broad forestry track, which is considerably easier underfoot. Although there's no public road along Ennerdale Water, this track provides access into the valley and is used for forestry and land management.

Looking across the lake, you can see Crag Fell rising steeply above the southern shore. As you approach Bowness Knott, the route becomes more intimate again, with woodland and views towards Angler's Crag. Continue around the western end of the lake and return to Bleach Green.

Shorter walks and accessible options

You don't have to complete the full circuit to enjoy Ennerdale Water. If you fancy something shorter, or would rather avoid the rocky paths around Angler's Crag, turn left at the bridge when approaching from Bleach Green car park. This takes you towards the northern side of the lake, where you can walk as far as you like before turning back. It's not a complete loop, but it's a lovely alternative.

For visitors with pushchairs or wheelchair users, I'd recommend starting at Bowness Knott instead. From here, you can access the broad forestry track following the northern side of the lake into the valley. It's more suitable than the rocky southern shore, although it's still an outdoor track with occasional gradients, uneven surfaces and puddles. Suitability depends on the wheelchair or pushchair and conditions on the day.

The lost Anglers Hotel

It's difficult to imagine today, but Ennerdale Water once had a substantial hotel standing right beside its shoreline. The Anglers Hotel was situated near the western end of the lake, close to where this walk begins. Guests could stay overlooking the water, enjoy the fishing and hire boats to explore the lake.

The hotel's story came to an unfortunate end in the early 1960s. Plans were developed to raise Ennerdale Water as part of a water supply scheme. The hotel stood in an area that would have been affected, so it was demolished in anticipation of the work. The proposed raising of the lake never went ahead.

Although the building has long since disappeared, a few traces of its past remain. If you know where to look, you can still make out some of the old brickwork and remnants of the boat launching area beside the lake. Apparently, old beer bottles have also been found around the former hotel site, another reminder of the days when visitors could enjoy a drink overlooking Ennerdale Water. Any surviving remains are best left undisturbed.

Wild Ennerdale: a valley changing naturally

As you walk along the northern shore, you'll notice extensive woodland covering the valley sides. Much of this was planted for commercial forestry during the twentieth century. The dense conifer plantations became a familiar feature of Ennerdale, but they're quite different from the woodland that would once have grown naturally in the valley.

Today the Wild Ennerdale project, a partnership involving Forestry England, the National Trust, United Utilities and Natural England, aims to give natural processes more freedom to shape the valley. This includes encouraging native woodland regeneration, allowing rivers to behave more naturally and gradually moving away from some uniform conifer plantations.

Galloway cattle roam parts of the valley and help create a more varied habitat through grazing. You might also spot signs warning about pigs in parts of the valley, used in conservation management to disturb vegetation and soil. Despite visiting Ennerdale regularly, I've yet to see one myself! The cattle are a more familiar sight. Give any grazing animals plenty of space, especially when walking with a dog.

The changes won't happen overnight, but that's part of what makes the valley interesting: it's not being preserved as a fixed landscape, it's being allowed to evolve.

A few things worth knowing before you go

The southern shore is often wet. Expect roots, rocks and waterlogged sections. Waterproof boots with good grip are strongly recommended.

Angler's Crag offers two options. The lower route involves scrambling beside the water; the higher path climbs over the crag. Neither should be underestimated in poor conditions.

The northern shore is easier. The forestry track is more straightforward, though not a surfaced promenade.

There are no cafés on the circuit. Bring food and drink. Facilities can be found in Ennerdale Bridge.

Check parking before travelling. Bleach Green has recently been closed for resurfacing, so check its status before setting off. Bowness Knott is another starting point.

Keep dogs under close control around livestock and wildlife, and carry a map or reliable navigation app.

Food and drink after your walk

Once you've finished, it's worth heading into Ennerdale Bridge for something to eat or drink. Despite being a small village, it's fortunate to have two excellent pubs, the Fox & Hounds and Shepherds Arms, both serving food and offering a welcome stop after a walk.

There's also The Gather, a community-owned café and village shop serving hot food, sandwiches, cakes and coffee. It's a lovely place to stop for lunch or a cuppa, and the shop stocks local produce and gifts.

All three are worth supporting, and they make a nice way to round off a day exploring Ennerdale.

Why I keep coming back

I've walked around Ennerdale Water countless times, and it's one of those places that never really gets old. Sometimes it's the light on the mountains, the reflections on the lake or the way the valley changes completely with the seasons. But the absence of a public road makes a real difference too.

Ennerdale feels more removed from the bustle of the wider Lake District. That doesn't mean you'll have the place to yourself on a sunny weekend, but it still has a character quite different from many of the better-known lakes.

The old Anglers Hotel reminds us how much the valley has changed, while Wild Ennerdale means it'll keep changing in the years ahead. For anyone exploring the western Lake District, the circular is a fantastic way to experience it. Just come prepared for mud, rough ground and the occasional wet foot.

For a longer adventure into the valley, read our Black Sail Hut walking and cycling guide.

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